So you've never been mud bogging before? Well, if it is something that interests you, then by all means, buy an old beater four wheel drive truck, and head for the local mud hole. The shortcomings of a stock truck will quickly become evident, but the fun factor is still there.
I have decided to give some pointers, aimed at giving a rookie more bang for his buck.
Lets start with simple truck modification that can be done on a budget, and will match your experience level. I don't think that some one who has never been in a mud hole hole will be any better off in a truck with 44 inch tires and 400 horsepower, because the experience will not be there. Beside that point, if you start off small and build your truck yourself, you will be better equipped to troubleshoot and repair your rig when the inevitable breakdown happens.
The first thing you will want to do is to make sure that all of the trucks(or jeep or suv etc.) various systems are in decent shape. Namely the motor, transmission, transfer case, and front and rear axle. These includes peripherals like motor and tranny mounts and springs and shocks. Check the oil in every thing and make sure it is topped off with the recommended fluids. The cooling system is something that should never be overlooked or the importance of it underestimated. Some kind of working fan is a must, and make sure your belts and hoses are in good condition. If in doubt, replace them. It eats up alot of good time dealing with a blown radiator hose, when it could have been prevented.
Waterproofing is very important and can be a study in itself. Start with raising the axle and transmission vents to a higher position in the chassis. Make sure air intake hose clamps are tight on fuel injected rigs, and you should never ever run without an air cleaner. Consider snorkeling the air intake. Obviously if this is your daily driver then some of these suggestions you will have to pass on, but never ever run without your air cleaner.
A little grease around the distributor cap helps keep out water, but avoid silicone here, as it will make it almost impossible to remove your cap. Some kind of boot for the cap will also be beneficial. Cool water on a hot distributor cap will cause condensation inside the cap, even if the cap is sealed. This is where you should never be without wd-40. It is an excellent moisture displacer, and works wonders on a stalled engine.
On fuel injected engines, all sensor connectors should be sealed with dielectric grease, as well as any harness connectors. This step would not be wasted time on a non fuel injected vehicle either.
It might seem obvious, but a good sealing gas cap is also a must. Dirt in the fuel system can be devastating.
Enough can't be said about waterproofing, so take your time. and your efforts will be well rewarded.
Good tire are a must. Get the best you can afford, and will work well with your truck. 38 inch tires on a stock truck just don't work. For mild off roading and trail riding, 33 inchers will work great, but if they are all your budget will allow, then use them. Keep an eye on local classified ads, as well as online ads and auctions. Some super deals on used tires can be found there.
35 inch tires and larger simply will not fit on most stock vehicles, so if you want to go larger than that, it is time to consider a lift or fender cutting, or a combination of the two.
I personally think that fender hacking is the way to go, as this is the cheapest option, but it also retains the factory drive line geometry. The factory spent millions of dollars designing a truck, and the stock drive line angles work very well. When it is time to lift your truck, either buy from a reputable lift manufacturer,or do some homework. The time and money will save alot of heart break when your truck wont track straight, bump steers like crazy, and the u-joints bind in every hole.
Take your time, and pay attention to detail. Your efforts will repay you with a truck that is more reliable, and you can spend more time driving than fixing.
Steering components are another thing that should be checked on a regular basis, as they are under extreme stress from larger tires and aggressive driving. The same holds true for ball joints and wheel bearings. Wash your truck after a weekend in the mud, and do a visual inspection of all the things mentioned before. If you see a seal leaking, or a cv boot ripped,THEN FIX IT! A little effort spent now will pay back big time later.
Obviously, a pretty truck doesnt necesarily make it a hero in the mud. How good you want your truck to look is a personal thing, but not important to performance. Rust is not something to worry about, unless it becomes a safety issue. If your door wont stay on the vehicle, it could become a hazard. I generally repair rust holes with a sheetmetal patch welded or riveted on, and then spraypainted, because I like to keep the mud out of the inside of the truck as much as possible.
The point is it don't have to be pretty to perform, which is why money is better spent on the driveline, as this is the important part.
So get a truck, and start building. It can be an extremely expensive sport, but it doesn't have to be. I will continue with this next time.
Happy mudding.
